Has Smoky Whiskey Made a Comeback in Ireland?

As Ireland's distillery scene, particularly in County Donegal, booms, the country is returning to its traditional roots in spirits making. A notable trend is the revival of smoky whiskey, a style that echoes Ireland's historic methods.

As someone who enjoys both gin and whiskey, especially a well-crafted "Old Fashioned," I’ve recently delved deeper into the art of spirits. Exploring different terroirs and blends has peeked my interest in what Ireland has to offer in this evolving industry.
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On a recent weekend drive to Portnoo Beach, Donegal, I stumbled upon the stunning Ardara Distillery, located near Ardara town. The architecture alone was striking, and I knew I had to return for a proper visit. A few months later, I was invited for a tour and tasting at the distillery on a rainy Saturday afternoon. I brought my Scottish girlfriend along to kick off her 40th birthday celebrations and she absolutely loved it.

A Bit of History 

Ardara Distillery was founded by Moira and James Doherty and became operational in October 2021. As a family-run business, there’s an unmistakable passion behind their work, a level of dedication and love you often find in family ventures. It’s inspiring to witness first-hand.

Whiskey with a Twist

​If you know a little about whiskey, you'll know that by global standards, it must be aged for at least three years in barrels to officially be called whiskey. As they prepare their first single-malt whiskey, which will be available in Spring 2025, the distillery is currently offering three unique blends.

What sets their whiskey apart is their revival of a long-forgotten process: making smoked or "peated" whiskey. Using turf (peat) from the local terroir, they create a rich, smoky flavour, a traditional method that has mostly fallen out of use. It was fascinating to learn about this process and witness it in their lab. The triple distillation in their beautiful brass vessels, a hallmark of the Ardara Irish whiskey, combined with the use of 100% malted barley and aging in sherry and brandy casks, results in a remarkable flavour profile. The smoky notes combined with fruity and yeasty undertones made for an unforgettable tasting experience. I can only imagine how extraordinary their single-malt will be.

Beyond Whiskey: A Gin to Remember

​While the whiskey was outstanding, I was equally impressed by their gin. Moira Doherty, one of the founders and a former midwife from Zimbabwe, ventured into gin-making despite having no previous experience. She created two distinctive gin styles, one infused with local seaweed and another with Asian spices, drawing from the family’s time living in Asia.

The Irish seaweed gin - An Dúlamán Gin: Irish Maritime Gin, which I couldn’t resist purchasing, is crafted using five types of seaweed, including the health-boosting Carrageen Moss. One variety, in particular, is especially rare Pepper Dulse, known as the "Truffle of the Sea" which is harvested only during special moon tides. This gin’s unique peppery hints make it truly exceptional. Despite the use of seaweed, there’s no fishy taste just a beautifully balanced, almost medicinal flavour best enjoyed on the rocks.
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The Asian-inspired gin - An Dúlamán Gin: Memories of Asia, with notes of anise and ginger, offers a warm, rounded flavour that’s perfect with soda.

Looking Ahead

​As I eagerly await the release of Ardara’s single-malt whiskey, I’ll continue enjoying their current offerings and that wonderful seaweed gin, especially as the autumn evenings grow colder.

If you’re like me and love visiting distilleries, Ardara is a must-see. Their expertly guided tour, followed by a fantastic tasting, makes for a perfect day out. Just a short walk from the distillery, the charming Nancy’s Bar, run by seven generations of the same family offers exceptional seafood. I highly recommend pairing fresh oysters with a splash of Sliabh Liag gin and a pint of Guinness. You’ll fall in love with the rustic charm and warm atmosphere.

In short, if you’re seeking a taste of Ireland’s smoky whiskey resurgence and a glimpse into its evolving distillery scene, Donegal is the place to be.